So, the C2C, a 140
mile coast to coast tour, no doubt a tour which provides you with a
challenge with it’s a route through the Lake District and over the
Pennines, while also a route through breathtaking scenery and
picturesque towns and villages.
The C2C was the
first of the Northern Coast to Coast routes to be set down as an
official route on the National Cycle Network, hence the name, and is
also a right of passage for many serious and not so serious cyclists.
It has two start points, Whitehaven and Workington, and two end
points Tynemouth and Sunderland, as well as a few options as you
cycle along.
I’m doing this
tour with my good friend Paul Pearson, a man who could be likened to
a sniffer dog if the dog's job was to find hills and passes and cycle
over them. If you can cycle over it anywhere in Europe, Paul has
probably done it, he is an expert on the south of Spain and extremely
knowledgeable about everywhere else.
So we decide to set
off from Whitehaven and finish in Tynemouth staying away from the
really rough off-road parts and sticking to road and smoother
off-road tracks. We were both arriving by train so we arranged to
meet in Carlisle and caught the connecting train to Whitehaven. This
was my second trip on this train, and it is an interesting trip –
especially as you get closer to Whitehaven and start hugging the
coast – it was good to be travelling with Paul discussing our next
three days and the route we were taking. Our plan was to be on the
road around 1pm and get to our inn for around 6pm that evening. So we
stocked up with some goodies in the Tesco beside the station and
headed over for our compulsory photo in front of the famous C2C sign
in the harbour, which was taken by a very kind lady who offered to
take it, and off we went.
The route is really
well signposted as you would expect from one of Sustrans flagship
routes. After riding through the town the route is off-road for the
next 10 miles or so, this part is popular with walkers and local
cyclists so you can expect to see other users as you head out of
Whitehaven. The off-road along the route is a mixture of hardened
grit or tarmac, and is a very good surface for cycling on, and here
you rise up slowly to Kirkland giving you impressive views of the
fells and lakes below. You slowly descend to Loweswater, which is
surrounded by beautiful hills and it is a very pretty place for a
picture. Cycling along the edge of Loweswater I wasn’t sure to wear
my sunglasses or not, as the sunshine was shimmering through the
trees and it kept going from bright sunlight to shade and back again.
Halfway down the lake the road takes you away away from Loweswater
and further into the Lake District, around two miles later – just
about where your bike would come to a natural stop – there is an
amazing view to your right of Crummock Water and it’s surrounding
peaks including Grasmoor and Whiteside.
Leaving this behind, you set off on the beginning of your first real pass of the
tour, Whinlatter Pass. So we first travel through High Orton where
you need to follow the yellow diversion signs, and instead of going
through Scales Farm you follow the B road running beside it. However
before getting to the B road there is a short sharp shock of a hill
where Paul left me for dead! My excuse is that Paul had been cycling
through the Balkans all summer, a lame excuse – you really know
you’ve been left behind when your friend is taking pictures of you
from the top as you struggle up, especially when the hill was only a
couple of hundred meters in length. Thankfully it all calms down
after that, and even though it was a little steep, I was able to hold
onto Paul as we made our way up Whinlatter.
Around Whinlatter
there are a few rough parts, the not so rough off-road section was
closed for tree felling, which meant we had to stay on the road. This
suited us me as it had been a quiet and lovely road through the
forest to ride. At Whinlatter Visitor Centre we stopped for a late
lunch, like most of the forest park visitor centres around the
country, it was well kept with great facilities and a ‘Go Ape’
centre. Another good thing is that the centre is on the pass, so
after our tesco lunch, it was straight down to Braithwaite – so if
you’re like me and get a bit cold after eating you might need to
put your jacket back on. There is a MTB advisable section, which we
stayed well clear of before shooting off down the hill as fast as my
brakes would let me. At the local pub at the bottom of the hill you
take a sharp right which takes you away on a small local road towards
Derwent Water and Keswick, providing great views of where you have
come from as well as where you are going, including the very
impressive Skiddaw.
Turning back onto
the road to Keswick we spot another tourer coming our way, who turned
out was on our train from Carlisle but started in Workington, it also
turned out that the off-road sections from Workington were mainly
closed so she had to stick to the mainer roads. Keswick is a typical
pretty Lake District town with lots of cafes, pubs and restaurants
with pedestrianised street, while also being surrounded by beautiful
hills and fells making it very popular.
Coming out of
Keswick we took the road to Castlerigg Stone Circle which was another
short sharp shock to the system, but this time I manage to hold onto
Paul until I had to stop to take a photo, always a good way to hide
the fact that your starting to blow. The road is well worth it as the
stone circle and its surroundings were absolutely outstanding.
Actually standing there at sunrise or sunset must be absolutely
spectacular, for us there was a bus load of tourists there but still
beautiful, you can see how it was a mystical place for the
inhabitants at the time it was built. The entrance to the site has
some nice circular maps with Castlerigg Stone Circles in the centre
surrounded by fells including Blencathra, Skiddaw and Castlerigg
Fell. From the stone circle we descend towards Threkald following the
foothills of Blencathra. The road here is very narrow and every few
hundred meters there’s a gate to open and close, usually just
before a little climb. The road continues like this for a couple of
miles until it looks like you are doubling back on yourself and start
heading back towards Troutbeck
We’re almost done
for our first day as our accommodation for the night is a little off
route in Penruddock. A nice inn, with comfortable if small rooms,
good food and lots of it as well as nice beer (all of which were very
welcome). Just before ordering food, one of the locals called us over
and asked us something while pointing at a pub game game of some
sort, but neither Paul or I had an idea of what he was talking about
– given that I’m Irish and Paul is Scottish and neither of us
have the softest of accents, and we have both worked as English
language teachers in different countries, not being able to
understand a word was something else. He did come up to me later and
asked (I think) to speak to my wife as I spoke to her on the phone
and later still started shouting at me to say potato! I was pretty
sure he’d had enough potatoes to be honest. Apart from that it was
a great night of food, a few beers and a couple of games of pool, I
of course won by getting Paul to pot the white at the same time as he
potted the black, quite a skill that one.
So after a good rest
we shot off again the next morning. The first town we encounter is
Greystoke, made famous by the books and films of Tarzan, a pretty
village with distinctive reddish brick houses and a nice centre.
Surrounded by Castle Greystoke and private gardens, legend has it all
who enter develop a strange
baying noise!! Sorry. The road to Penrith is easy riding and includes
a detour through a local college to an off-road section to Penrith.
The C2C route itself misses on the centre of Penrith but we rode in
to take a look around, again it’s a pretty town with lots of
eateries and local shops. We stocked up for today in M&S and
braced ourselves for the climbing to come today.
The ride between
Penrith and Langwathby was very pretty at this time of the year, a
few steep climbs followed by a quick descent through Beacon Fell and
Wood Head before we burst out onto a road surrounded by fields of
wheat and/or barley. After passing through the small town of
Langwathby with it’s cosy couple of cafes you hit a few steep
hills. Then the road begins to undulate towards Renwick, look to your
right and you can see where you will be pushing your bike up in the
not to distant future. From Renwick it’s a bit of a slog all the
way up to Hartside cafe, around 4-5 miles. The good thing about it is
that every time you stop the view gets better and better – another
good thing is that if your friend brings jelly babies for you to
scoff down half way. The road to Hartside is half on a local road and
half on an A road. The A road was fairly quiet when we went up and
every car that went by gave us lots of room, they also seemed to go
by as if we were standing still, which we basically were!
We stopped outside
the cafe for lunch, there are benches facing the valley below,
perfect for lunch as all cyclists seemed to take advantage of after
reaching the top. There were a few different types of cyclists who
climbed to Hartside, some came up – lunched – and cycled back
down, some came up, ate and got into a car waiting for them then, and
then us who cycled up, had something to eat and continued down the
C2C route. The route continues on the A686 for around 3 miles, slowly
descending, giving you amazing views of the moor surrounding you.
From Leadgate to
Garrigil the road is like a roller coaster, up and down, and just too
much up to allow you to sprint down and fly up without dropping down
the gears (but Paul did try!). Garrigil was like a ghost town passing
through, no one around because, as we found out from a couple of
cyclists later, was the one day when all shops and cafes close. As we
hadn’t planned to stop we kept going. Now, on the C2C map, the road
out of Garrigil has no markings showing it as a steep hill, let me
tell you – woo- it’s one hell of a steep hill. As we were coming
in to Garrigil from Hartside, we were looking for the road coming out
as you have a good view of the whole town, but we could only see one
road but it looked a bit too mental to be the road we needed to take,
so we assumed there was another – there wasn’t. The climb is very
steep, not very long, but steep as it climbs across Alston Moor until
you can see the town of Nenthead. At this point the road drops
steeply into the town so check your brakes. Before you descend you
can again check to see where you’re going when you leave Nenthead,
this road climbs up Black Hill to the highest point off the NCN.
So down and up we go
after a quick pit stop in the local shop and a chat to two other
c2c-ers, the view from the top is great and not long afterwards you
pass the welcome to Northumberland sign. As it’s the top of the NCN
you’d think it’s all downhill, and it is all downhill for a mile
or so before you climb again! It’s a great ride down to
Allenheads, including a couple of cutbacks, lovely views of the road
stretching out into the distance. Reaching Allenheads you follow the
river into the centre of town, a town sitting in a valley in
Northumberland surrounded by Cumbria and Durham, and also a ski
centre in winter.
Climbing out of
Allenheads you pass quickly into Durham, where after the Durham sign
the road softly descends for a number of miles, allowing you to have
a nice look around local scenery including the old mine building, now
disused. The road continues to Rookhope and again it stays nice and
downwards, and weren’t we grateful for the break – although we
knew the road out of Stanhope was going to be a slog, especially as
we had decided to cycle over almost all of the hills in one day.
So we were enjoying
this flat and downward cycle and looking forward to it continuing to
Stanhope, as the map says! But NO, maps can lie (or just not tell you
the entire truth- and to be fair I find sustrans maps really useful)
and up, up we go again! So again we are at the top looking down at
Stanhope and looking at the road out of Stanhope. After taking in the
views and a handful of jellies we’re off again, free-wheeling our
way down to Stanhope.
Stanhope is another
pretty village in the mountains, which has a few pubs and cafes
scattered around. Just as we turn off to climb up the hill out of
Stanhopethere is a lovely village pub with lots of people outside
enjoying the summer sun. Looking at this group we were both probably
thinking the same thing, oh I’d love a pint!
Completing the C2C
in three days isn’t overly difficult, the hills are still to be
climbed but it’s spread out – and the hills are what gives the C2C
its beauty, and really are a joy to climb. Our mistake, if that’s
what you call it it, is that we did it in actually two days (1pm
Monday to 1pm Wednesday) and where the two half days were the easier
parts – leaving all the major climbing for the one full day. We
still enjoyed it immensely and now we started up our last climb of
the day and it’s a steep one, and steeper at the start before
flattening out the further you go. Half way up I wanted to say to
Paul that we’ve it’s back broken, but I needed another jelly baby
to say that, so I just looked at him and he nodded in agreement.
So after about 3
miles you get to the cycle path called the Waskerly Way, a
beautifully maintained traffic free path, suitable for all bikes,
which descends nicely for 10 miles or so all the way to Consett.
However, we were staying in Shoteley Bridge, so we figured if we
stayed on the road it should take us directly to our hotel, which it
did. It was a lovely descent, surrounded by purple heather, with
views of Consett in the distance. After a couple of bumps we arrived
in Shotely Bridge and our hotel. A nice meal and a few well deserved
beers let us relive the day and talk about the morning ahead. The
Olympics was showing on the tv and the track cycling was on, I
definitely prefer our way of cycling. Talking to the locals about our
trip in the morning we hear the famous phrase again -oh it's all
downhill.
Fully rested the
next morning we leave the hotel, immediately going uphill to the
cycle path that will take us to Newcastle and Tynemouth. To be fair,
once on the path it was practically all downhill or flat. The path
snakes through the forested areas of Chopwell Wood and Snipes Dene
Wood along the path known as the Derwent Path, which will eventually
lead us to the River Tyne, which we head west along – cross over –
then start back west again to Newcastle and Tynemouth. The path at
first follows beside a busy road before leaving it and working its
way beside the river to the Quayside, Newcastle City Centre and its
many bridges. We stopped for a coffee by the Tyne and a few photos by
the Millennium Bridge (we’d just missed it operating).
We are now cycling
on the route of Hadrian’s Cycleway, Coast and Castles and the C2C
and it’s a path I’d ridden recently while finishing Hadrian’s
Cycleway. It follows a path through the towns on the outskirts of
Newcastle, past Wallsend (at the end of the famous wall!) and North
Shields, where you can get a Ferry or a cruise to Northern Europe and
Beyond. There is a tunnel where you could cycle through to South
Shield, but it’s under renovation and isn’t expected to open
until spring 2018, fingers crossed. I think the problem with the
tunnel happened when they began renovations and found asbestos, a bit
of a headache. However the path now flows around North Shields before
the final hill up to Tynemouth and its priory, fish and chips are
recommended here (by Jimi Hendrix apparently) but I’m not a
battered fish man myself, too much batter not enough fish for me.
So myself and Paul
headed back to the train station to meet our trains, we said goodbye,
Paul going north while I was heading south. Paul was using this tour
as a warm up for his next adventure in Spain, rail-cycling around the
north of Spain from Santander into Asturias seeking out hills like
Angliru to cycle up! I was only a little jealous.